The inner bearing race usually stays with the flange as you pound it out. I used a bearing separator and a puller to remove the race. I put the flanged axle nut on the back of the hub and a piece of steel on top of that so I would have something to push against. The bearing separator and puller cost about $100 for the pair.
Your hub is free of the race and ready for some cleaning. If you don't have a suitable puller, you can try slotting the race with a Dremel and a cut off wheeld. Whack the slots with a hammer and chisel. Just make sure you don't touch the hub with the cutoff tool or you will turn it into scrap.
I used a bearing puller to remove the bearing from the control arm. I bought it from Bavarian Autosport years ago for about $200. Its nothing more than some mandrels and a large diameter threaded rod so if you are handy with a lathe you could make this tool yourself.
Using a different set of mandrels, use the puller to install the new bearing.
Bearing installation is pretty easy with the right tool. I was able to use a standard 1/2 inch drive Craftsman ratchet and a 36mm socket to tighten the puller. An 1-1/8 inch wrench holds the nut in back.
The new bearing is in. Install a new snap ring to keep the bearing in.